No half measures are taken at Jack Davison Bespoke when it comes to the creation of your new suit. Having established the function, cloth and detail of your piece, it’s time to get to the heart of the bespoke matter: measurement and construction.
We start with a fitting. How many fittings you have will depend on how we intend to construct the suit, and this is where the bespoke versus made-to-measure debate comes into play. Which is right for you?
A bespoke suit is the ultimate sartorial experience and display of craftsmanship; entirely handmade, the highest quality imaginable and following in the footsteps of centuries of tailoring tradition on Savile Row and in Naples. What’s more, you have almost limitless options when it comes to styling. A bespoke suit is entirely unique to you, down to the very last detail, it's fit precise to the very last stitch.
Choosing made-to-measure offers you the opportunity to put your own stamp on your suit, without the intricacy of detail involved in bespoke. Precisely measured and machine-made, a made-to-measure suit will still provide perfect fit and upmost quality, but is a gentler introduction to the Savile Row experience for the more time-conscious gentleman.
So, what happens once that choice has been made?
BESPOKE: During your first fitting, we’ll take an in-depth set of measurements. This includes your neck, chest, waist, hips, seat, inside leg, outside leg, sleeve, and shoulder to cuff length. Phew! As if that wasn’t enough, we’ll also look carefully at the configuration of your body. We all like to think we’re symmetrical, but nobody is perfect you know! We’re all unique, so we need to take specifics into account. Measurements are the keystone to the perfect suit, so we take this part very seriously. We will make a note of your posture and incorporate that into your pattern.
Next, your very own paper pattern will be hand-drawn and cut from scratch; this is then transferred to your chosen cloth to be constructed and sewn by hand, in our workshop here in London, ready for your first ‘basted’ fitting. This is followed by a number of further fittings, to allow us to re-work the garment to perfect its fit. A bespoke jacket typically takes around forty hours to make by hand; the whole process takes around ten to twelve weeks from initial consultation to finished product. Your paper pattern is then stored safely, ready for your next commission with us.
MADE-TO-MEASURE: Just as with a bespoke suit, we will take a full set of body measurements, because this suit will still be made entirely from scratch, just for you. Then we follow a slightly different process. We take your measurements and apply them to our existing house pattern, which we call the ‘block’. The block is customised and adapted to your measurements and style before being made in your cloth of choice and to your specifications. Each suit is then sewn by machine with only a little hand work. As with the bespoke process, your pattern is stored away, ready for the next time. With less fittings involved, the process is a quicker one, taking around six to seven weeks from beginning to end.
And then it’s time for the big reveal! Measure twice, cut once; never a truer word was spoken when it comes to bespoke tailoring.